Last night’s campsite was right beside the ferry dock – so no need for an alarm this morning. The rumble of big diesel engine was quite enough. It turns out that they don’t tie up the boat, but use the engine to nuzzle up to the dock ramp. Hence the noise.

I had plenty of time to watch!

I woke to the predicted rain and so I had a lie in and a long breakfast. It was also very cold and windy. But by 10 it had stopped and the sun came out briefly. Off I shot, dressed up in all my winter kit.

There were no less than two villages en route today, and each had a shop. It felt very strange to pass them without the need to get supplies. The area is more populated than any so far. All the valley floors and flat seashore is cultivated – mostly sileage. My closest points of reference are the valleys of Bavaria and the Orkneys.

I just had a reasonable view of Torghatten – a mountain with a hole right through the centre of it – before the rain came in again.

Plan A had been to take a side trip south to see it up close, and to camp there, before reversing to the main route tomorrow. But in this weather I couldn’t see the point. I had a huge plate of excellent fish and chips for lunch in Bronnoysund before deciding on Plan B – a nice hotel in town. My clothes are washed and drying nicely, the tdf is on tv, and I’ll live to fight another day. Not that the forecast looks much better tomorrow!

This has been another superb ride – backroads at first, and then the F17 coast road that I’ll follow from now on. This was the view from the campsite last night.

My first stop this morning came after just 8 miles so, even after food shopping, I had to wait for the cafe to open at 9.00. There are so few that I can’t just ignore them, even if it was a bit early for second breakfast.

Loads more stunning scenery, and then a mid morning lunch.

The geography is so confusing that I am glad of the garmin for reassurance that I am still going the right way, despite the fact that there are no junctions. Or are there ? This is about as complex as it gets. I managed to get the right one.

When I joined the main road I was surprised to find it is still very quiet, with big gaps in the traffic. The dominant sound of the trip so far is birdsong. Never seen or heard so many. After the longest continuous climb so far the road came down to run along the shoreline – with stunning views. This is what I came for!

Just before the ferry there was a beautiful church in Holm – a place with just 2 farms.

I took my third ferry of the trip and knocked off early, just after 2pm in a campsite right beside the ferry dock. It’s been great, but I must admit that my legs need a good rest! So kick back and watch the tdf. Rain on the way tomorrow.

This has been a fantastic day – early morning mist and rain clearing to give a sunny afternoon. Fjords and coastline all just superb.
I managed to avoid the heaviest hour of rain this morning by having a second breakfast in a bakery at Namsos around 10am. Meagre fare compared with American 2nd breakfasts last year, but still very welcome. In fact its been positively busy today as I am returning to more regular tourist routes. I even found a rosdside cafe with staff wanting to chat. Had a chat with cyclists going south. And with a guy on the ferry. The first question is “Are you going to  Nordkapp?”.  “No” is not what they are expecting – so the guy on the ferry cheered my up by telling me that its a waste of time – very boring. Whereas Lofoten is stunning. My calculation exactly!

I had a little excitement when, at 2pm and only about 2 miles from my 2.30 ferry, a stream of traffic started coming the other way – off the ferry. It was out of sight, and I assumed it would turn and leave asap, as the Trondheim ferry had. So I sprinted (that’s a relative term on a 40kg bike – great win for Cav again today – got to watch the finish for the 3rd day in a row) the rest of the way – only to find that the ferry was spending 20 mins being refuelled from a road tanker.

By the way – the bike lanes in Namsos were superb – they even blast away entire cliffs to make space beside the road. And all they do at home is paint a pathetic white line 6 inches out from the kerb.

And while on politics – ish – the guy on the ferry’s other bon mot was the suggestion that my trip to Norway is just to see if there is life outside the EU!

Now I am in a campsite with a top 10 view of the fjord. Stunning. Can’t claim there is a beautiful sunset – I’ll be long asleep by then. Decent weather again tomorrow – albeit with showers. Then downhill to cold and rain I think. So I am making the most of this.

Well this is day 2 of the ride, and i may finally have got the blog working. They have be

en spectacular days with great scenery and lots of climbing on a very heavy bike. Today was harder than yesterday but I felt better and seem to be recovering ok. Weather is very mixed – frequent heavy showers. Luckily about 6 hours of heavy rain came through last night and stopped as I set off.

This is very remote country indeed. Huge crags, lakes and seascapes to die for. A perfect get away from it all holiday! But not many cyclists so far. Its only day 2 and I am talking to myself already. Haven’t seen any moose yet.

In Trondheim they are more interested in other sports.

Here are some of todays seascapes.
Tomorrow its on a rolling road to Namsos for provisions, then into the wilds again – with my second ferry to finish the day.