Another day in paradise! The sun shone, the wind blew from behind us, and a variety of low key, but very beautiful, Wisconsin scenery rolled past our bikes. It has begun to feel very much like that. That Tim and I, pedalling our bikes, are the static centre of everything, and that America itself is slowing moving past us. Perhaps that’s why I’m feeling so calm and peaceful. 

Anyway – here’s a picture of Alma, on the Mississippi, next to Lock 4 (a gigantic boat lock next to a hydro weir. I’d have been impressed if Helen and I hadn’t ridden over so many of them on the Danube). 

 
There was no breakfast to be had in Alma, so last night we stocked up with a giant, sticky cinnamon bun each. So fueled, we set off up the side valley of the Buffalo river. The early morning calm was stunning: dew on the grass, deer emerging from the woods, buzzards overhead. The valley had steep wooded sides, but the valley floor was flat and about half a mile wide. The river was totally unmanaged and wandered freely about the natural floodplain. There was willow and alder, and lakes with bullrushes and wildfowl – all in the mellow early morning light. And hardly a car to break the spell. A lovely 25 miles of cycling before a huge pancake breakfast in Mondovi. 

After breakfast the land became more agricultural, but with areas of natural deciduous woodland. Logging trucks reappeared on the road, for the first time since the Black Hills, but this time carrying hardwood logs. At one point we came upon a war vets memorial field with a Cobra attack helicopter stuck, rather incongruously, on a pole.

  
I had a second huge meal at lunchtime in Neillsville. Here a lovely gentleman called John wanted to know all about the trip. He made a donation to Yorkshire Cancer Research and, as we got up to pay, we found he hsd settled our bill as well. Thanks John – we’ll remember your kindness. 

After lunch the scenery changed again. Now we were crossing an area of giant glacial moraines – arable land with cattle in vast sheds – and the road constantly rolled up and down. Wisconsin is, in a quietly understated way, really very pretty indeed. 

Now we are in a very nice hotel just outside Marshfield. 105 miles today in 5 and a half hours. Our 7th consecutive day over 100 miles. I love a good tailwind!