This was simply one of the best days cycling ever. Scenery such as I have only seen on films. Wide open grasslands leading to mountains with scattered pines, small derelict wooden barns, cattle in some places, horse ranches in others. Narrow wooded canyons with cliffs, winding through to the next open vista. And always that big Montana sky. Wow! 

  
To begin with it was overcast and cool – great for cycling but not so good for photos. After 50 miles we stopped for brunch at the Stray Bullet Cafe in the tiny wooden wild west hamlet of Ovando. This was the first place since leaving Missoula! I had been looking forward to this moment for at least 2 years and, although it wasn’t quite as quirky as I had imagined, the three generations of women did us proud with a second breakfast and a pack up for the remaining 77 almost uninhabited miles. 

   
 
After Ovando we picked up an afternoon tail wind as the sun came out. We were still climbing, but at a good speed. And still the scenery was stunning – huge glacial moraines hundreds of feet high and miles long swept down from the mountains and cut across the grasslands.

   
 
After 95 miles, and at the second hamlet of the day, Avon, we had run out of water. The hoped for Post Office wasn’t open so Tim knocked on a door where we had seen boys playing. Well, we got a hero’s reception and had a lovely play with the kids into the bargain!  8 year old twins boys are fun. 

For the final miles we ran beside the railway again and were treated to the sight and sound of more enormously long trains. One had 2 traction units front and back and 4 more in the middle! And nearly 200 wagons. The track ran beside low crags and I was expecting Butch Cassidy and co to come swooping down to hold up the train! (I may also have sung the Casey Jones theme tune).

  
And finally there was the small matter of the McDonald Pass. I am not used to starting the main climb of the day with over 100 miles in the legs, but needs must. And it had been the fastest 100 I have ever ridden.

  
At 6225 feet this was our highest point so far. But more important it is the Continental Divide. I had to have a pee on the top – just to see if it would end up in the Caribbean, via the Missouri and Mississippee, or the Pacific via the Colombia River!  The views off the very fast descent to Helena were great.

  
It’s not much of a hotel, but we were here before 5pm. Not bad for 125 miles and 6000 feet of ascent. We are now in search of large quantities of food.