I’m afraid we didn’t make it to the July 4th fireworks last night, having fallen asleep before they really got going! And, strangely, we were the only people up for breakfast when it opened at 7am.

The day started with a crossing of the Deception Pass bridges. I like these sea level passes that require no climbing at all. This one separates Whidbey Island from Fidalgo Island. We crossed by means of a spectacular high level steel bridge, built in 1935. The bridge is in two sections, stopping off at the tiny Pass Island, midway across. This is a truly stunning seascape, with a huge tidal surge racing through way below us.

The Pass was named by Vancouver himself in 1792, because his expedition missed it the first time around and had concluded, wrongly, that Whidbey sland was connected to Fidalgo Island. They were an incompetent lot, these explorer types. I am not sure if this is an early example of English self-deprecatory humour or an attempt to deflect criticism.

In the 1880s the Pass and its smalls islands were the site of large scale (for the time) smuggling of Chinese immigrants. This became notorious when the operation was threatened by imminent official intervention and many of the would-be immigrants were simply drowned by the smugglers in what became known as Dead Man’s Bay.

These days there is a state park on land and at sea, and boat trips a plenty. Kayakers love the tidal falls, and so does a lot of other marine life. The views are superb out to the San Juan slands, and towards Victoria and the Pacific.

After the bridges we followed the coastline for a few miles, through more villages with painted wooden houses, before finally turning inland and heading East, towards the mountains. But first there was time for a second breakfast in the beautiful town of La Conner. A maple and bacon cake with maple sugar icing. This is the life.

  
The jerseys have been a great hit. They get us into conversations everywhere, right from the first ferry yesterday. I suppose by definition, those who are interested enough to ask are mostly encouraging – so that’s good!

From La Conner we entered the Skagit Valley and enjoyed a fabulous, quiet road beside the river for about 30 miles.

   
 Our final stop was at the town of Concrete. This is a company town – the Portland Cement Company – and was essential for the building of all the concrete dams up the valley in the early 19th century. The Concrete Drug Store (concrete drugs?) and Concrete Theatre (no imagination required) amused us both. 

   
 It was about 95F by this time and much water was needed. The final few red hot miles up Hwy 20 have brought us to a lovely spot where we have our very own 2 bedroom cabin in the woods. Luzury! Tomorrow the Washington Pass.