From the moment we checked into the hotel in Rettenberg, to the moment we checked out, the rain poured down. 18 hours non stop heavy rain. I am glad we weren’t camping because everywhere is flooded, streams are at full pelt – and they are only just rebuilding the numerous bridges swept away in July’s deluge!

But for today’s cycling – just the occasional icy shower. The scenery was varied, and stunning despite the cloud. Since leaving the tourist honeytrap of Fussen, (blame Neuschwanstein castle) we have seen noone except local Germans for two days. Not even the ubiquitous Dutch motor homes have made it this far. This is the Allgau region, and it feels very remote indeed.

Between the showers we cycled beside the beautiful Alpsee.

At one point we saw a patch of sunshine on a distant hill – the first sun for days, so I took a photo for the record!

Lunch was at a fantastic, warm cafe that appeared from nowhere. A chance to warm through and dry out. The only downside being a plague of gnomes.

Actually, being the only visitors in such cafes can be a relief. In Fussen, two grumpy Americans were (not unreasonably) complaining about the cold and the rain when he came up with the classic line, “Venice next. At least the Plaza is next to the station, so you don’t have to walk. But that Plaza’s so cold and windy”.

After lunch we spent several miles climbing up to a pass at about 850m, in very confused and broken country. There should have been good views south to the Alps, but all covered in cloud.

We put on all the clothes we had for a cold descent into very different country. We entered a small river valley very like those cutting into the North York Moors. Moments of homesickness! The valley wound gently down, until a final climb brought us to another hotel. Camping holds no attraction in these conditions. Not much of a welcome here, but we were finally admitted to a dry room. Tomorrow we reach the Bodensee, and the end will be very much in sight.

Helen’s track of the day:
Did You Hear the Rain by George Ezra.
He has had a lot of radio play, especially in Italy, during this trip and he came up on the TV last night in between sports reports we were following (more or less) on German TV. I noticed also that he was support act to Bastille on the poster adverts I saw coming out of Verona. So I better put one from his album on the playlist and this track seems fitting given the weather we have had.