Back to cycling today. And to more heavy rain and low cloud. The first hour was seriously wet as we set off down the Salzach valley, still following the Tauernradweg bike path towards Salzburg.

But yesterday’s rest seemed to have done the trick and, by coffee, the rain stopped. The valley entered a gorge, where we were entertained by kids in a raft shooting the rapids. After lunch the path climbed steeply away from the river. On rested legs this was worth it – first to warm us up after the morning’s soaking and, second, for the views.

The last few miles followed the river bank to Bischofshofen, a ski village with an old centre. It is Sunday and there is very little open. We decided that it is too cold to camp (or, rather, too cold to sit still outdoors between now and bedtime) so we have found a cheap guesthouse. The temperature has only just reached double figures this afternoon. And this is August!

Helen’s track of the day:
Still Crazy After All These Years, Paul Simon
The start of the ride today was like dressage on a bike rather than on a horse : slippy gravel paths, water jumps over streams, some without bridges and some with tiny metal ramps tucked in to a narrow ledge to test your balance, then thick mud, sometimes with deep puddles so you couldn’t see how deep the water was on entry and then steep inclines to test your balance and strength. All in the rain and , in my case, with a Paul Simon medley playing in my head. You have to be crazy to be enjoying this, I thought at one point. Cue track of the day.