We had 2 cool and quiet nights in Parma thanks to the hotel’s air conditioning and sealed windows. I know Daniel, our Eco-warrior, thinks air-con is the work of the devil but this woman of a certain age is very glad of it. The staff in the posh Parma hotel were very friendly and took great care of our bikes and they were interested in our route etc. Perhaps we were different from their usual clientele. One mature American couple caught my eye. She swept her blonde tresses over her shoulder Miss Piggy style and said to her doting partner, “Oh it’s so easy to write here, I think I’ll set my next novel in Italy.” As Sybil Fawlty would say, pretentious? Moi?

So, the cycling was lovely today, hot and humid, then we caught the edge of a storm and the rain brought a brighter and more pleasant day over generally flat but interesting terrain and some lively villages. We had a great and cheap pasta lunch in Reggio Emilia where the whole city seemed to have a holiday vibe, and cycles were everywhere.

The meandering route Andy had set on the GPS was a complex 50 miles, but got us safely around motorways, high speed railways, factories and all and a surprisingly pretty route into Modena. The hotel is distinctly average but we are well and ready to go exploring. It is currently 33c so we need to go slowly.

Track of the day: A Place in the Sun by James Morrison ( and Jools Holland and the Band). An old Stevie Wonder song but I prefer this version and it’s perfect after yesterday’s less than upbeat choice.