This was an excellent campsite, with a lovely view of the cruise ships from the deck outside reception, where we may have had a beer or two last night.

This morning, having packed the tent, the day started with breakfast at a very swanky cafe with a roof terrace and a wonderful view of the river. It turned into a long breakfast. Then there was a shopping trip to buy a picnic lunch, and then we had to queue for the ferry to the quiet side of the river. (It is now so big that bridges are all post war – big, expensive and well spaced out.) So by the time we reached the far side it was past 10 o’clock – a record slow start for a camping night!

One major target for the day was to outrun the 22 Italian camper vans masquerading as a cycling party. We were annoyed that they caught us up at our coffee stop – inundating the place – so we left, pronto, and got some speed going. We haven’t seen them again (so far).

Next stop, just after lunch, was the birthplace of Oskar Kokoshska. During our earlier visits to just about all the modern art galleries in Switzerland, we had kept coming across paintings by OK (as we now know to call him). I just thought the name was fabulous – never mind the art – though that was good too. So now was a chance to find out about the man, at his birthplace museum in Pochlarn. I won’t burden you with the details, but it just reinforced our earlier conclusion that Austria in 1938 was not a good place to be. Oskar escaped to Prague and then London and lived to a ripe old age.

From Pochlarn it was a short hop downriver to Melk. This is the site of a world famous, gigantic, salmon-pink monastery that dominates the town. Unfortunately the phrase ‘ridiculous baroque monstrosity’ came to mind rather early on and, rather than pay the entrance money for the tour, we sat and ate the most delicious ice creams in the tea shop below. We don’t regret the choice – but if you want to know more about Melk monastery you’ll have to visit the website!

The last stage has brought us to the tiny village of Aggsbach and a very basic campsite beside the river. This is the last section of gorge before Vienna.

Helen’s track of the day: The Eagles, Hotel California, played at the campsite cafe this evening, though sadly with guitar solo cut short.