Back to sunny weather, breeze on our backs, and beautiful, easy cycling. Sunday morning in Ulm is given over to jogging, rollerblading, rowing and, of course, cycling. The riverside cycle path out of town was heaving.

The valley is a lot broader here, and we enjoyed a mix of tarmac (small lanes), dirt tracks through forests, cycle lanes beside the road and some suburban streets. The town of Gunsberg was the main highlight, and we stopped for a long drink and a (re)read of Saturday’s Guardian. (Getting hold of a Grauniad – particulary the Sat version – has become something of a Holy Grail that has involved trips to gares and bahnhofs in all major towns and cities. This week’s was a disappointment – Lucy Mangan and the puzzles page was missing. I can feel a letter to the European editor coming on).

We stopped after 36 miles right beside the Danube at Dillingen at a small campsite. We arrived around 3 pm and pitched our tent. Since then a huge number of cyclists have arrived, including several families with a total of about 10 children between them. Our tent is now hemmed in and it is anybody’s guess whether we’ll get any sleep tonight. Oh the joys of camping!

Helen’s track of the day: Fleetwood Mac, The Chain, because of my first pangs of homesicknessness tonight and this reminds me of home, listening to Mark Radcliffe on the radio.