Somehow we ended up cycling 49 miles today – which I think is a record. We had stopped a few miles short of our intended campsite last night because of the rain, so it was always going to be a longer day – but it turned into quite a test at the end as the supposedly riverside route left the river and turned hilly, and huge thunderstorms forced us to stop and shelter.

Part of the problem was that the first 10 miles or more were so beautiful and we made a slow start. The path continued to wind (look at the loops on our GPS track) through the limestone gorge with ‘wows’ at every turn. Wildenstein castle was particularly spectacular.

You will notice the absence of photos of the view back down from the castle. Somehow the urge to cycle up there for it just didn’t seem to be there. But I am sure it is very good. Back in the valley, the off road trail through the forest was just perfect – if rather slow.

And the tiny hamlets were equally idyllic, so that out coffee stop was a real treat.

By lunchtime we had emerged from the gorge and entered a wider section of the valley – back to sharing it with road and railway. The riding here was not so spectacular, but at least we had a tailwind. But this particular tailwind had a sting in it, as it was driving thunderstorms in from the west. We sat one out under a huge concrete road bridge that crossed the Danube on piers and tried to chat to locals who were also sheltering. Neither of us was keen on camping – given the conditions – so, after some false starts and extra miles we found a modern and welcoming guest house in Obermarchtal.

One of the many tell-tale signs of the keen cyclist is an imprint of the large chain ring, in oil, on the back of the calf. Here is a perfect example of the genre – if I say so myself. I am seriously considering getting it tattooed there permanently.

Helen’s track of the day: Supertramp – Dreamer, because we hear a lot of Supertramp in Germany and every holiday playlist should have some Supertramp.